Sport climbing and rock climbing in Iran
Sports climbs and rock climbing in Iran is the subject of this article, in 1326, Iran’s mountaineering sports became an official organization.
And in 1327, the mountaineering and skiing federations were merged.
and started their activity in the name of Iran Mountaineering and Skiing Federation.
In 1353, following the expansion of both mountaineering and skiing, two federations became independent.
The Mountaineering Federation changed its name from the World Mountaineering Federation in 1368 for the independence of the World Sports Climbing Federation.
Changed to the Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation. And since then it was introduced with this title.
In the years 1365 and 1366, long roads were rolled. It was seen with ropes or straps from which it was hung.
And climbing these paths was done by pedaling or taking a belt from roll to roll.
From the mid-sixties in Iran, a group of climbers separated their way from the traditional climbers.
And instead of relying on climbing rocks. And the walls focused the effort on a quick and easy climb.
The climbing area of Bandh Laghar, located in the north of Tehran, has two climbing cores.
each of which contained several rolling stones. It was formed to the short boulders of the region,
They were seen as new and independent fields.
They stood at the foot of a short stone;
after that :
They defined a difficult or very difficult path and tried many times on the path. and they fell
Then they tried. And sometimes they continued this line of work for a few weeks to open a path of several meters.
At the beginning of their work, they were ignored and even humiliated by mountaineers and traditionalists;
Because they considered it alien to the essence of real climbing.
But little by little groups of wall climbers and traditional workers who were not too stubborn,
With different motivations, they paid attention to this kind of rock climbing and gradually the objections decreased.
And based on the suggestion of a number of climbers, it was decided to move the competitions inside the halls.
It became clear very soon.
Trying to climb very short and difficult routes can be an effective help in gaining skills to climb high mountain walls.
And it can be known as a new sport.
In the mid-sixties, among the sports climbers who had a significant presence in the glacier band and a lot of activity,
They had difficult natural routes to climb.
We can remember Mohammad Davoudi, the young secretary of the Mountaineering Federation at that time.
Mehdi Fatahi, Mohammad Sarbaz, and Hossein Reza Dost pointed out.
Then a range of other climbers such as Zinda Yad Fereydon Esmailzadeh,
who had a rich and long-term background in climbing mountain walls and doing technical work as a climber.
Mohammad Taghi Beharvar, who had years of mountain climbing experience in America and Canada,
Hasan Javaherpour, a prolific trainer and experienced mountaineer,
Abbas Mohammadi is a resident of Tehran who was interested in mountain climbing and serious wall climbing and organizational work in this field.
And Hassan Najarian, a mountaineer and wall climber, who had several speed and technical climbs on the walls of Alam Kouh and Biston in his career.
This is how they became attracted to rock climbing.
a few moments later,
Young climbers such as Hamid Rouhani, Rasul Kishari, Naser Sarwar Masuleh,
Kamiyar Kavianpour, Hassan Ghami Loui and Mahmoud Irvani also entered the pit of competition in the ascent.
The motivation and tendency of each of these people was different.0
Mohammad Taqi Behravar was more interested in introducing the world’s technical mountaineering achievements and also in organizational work in this field.
And in this regard, he introduced techniques for climbing short rocks, from the North-East of America, as well as American grading, for the difficulty of the route, into Iranian mountaineering.
Also, Oba Paul Brest, one of the officials of the French Mountaineering Federation, made arrangements for holding competitions in Iran.
which provided a suitable platform for holding competitions in Iran.
For Hasan Javaherpour, sports climbing was another arena for training and coaching.
Abbas Mohammadi believed that competition can help improve the quality of rock climbing.
The subject of mountaineering competitions and sport climbs and rock climbing in Iran,
It was mentioned in the Federation of Mountaineering and Sports Climbing since 1368.
Sadegh Aghajani, the head of the federation at the time, in one of the public meetings held in
The place of the amphitheater is the joint office of the federations and was organized with the follow-up of Hossein Reza Dost.
said: We should start rock climbing competitions in Iran as soon as possible.
If we do this today,
We will be only a few years behind the European countries and otherwise our backwardness will increase.
Iran’s first rock climbing competition was held in 1369 in Pars’s Seng mountain range.
This competition was held in the form of a reel, and the criterion for the superiority of the climbers was the speed of their ascent.
This competition was organized by the Mountaineering Federation following the efforts of Hossein Reza Dost, and several rock climbers from different cities of the country participated in it.
Mehdi Fatahi won the first place in this competition.
After that, a race was held on the Big Frog Rock. Then a race was held on the Martiner wall near Sarband Square.
In the months of December to March 1371, by making clamps from natural stones,
And they were installed on one of the walls of the Takvar club hall, one of the first artificial climbing walls in Iran.
Hamid Rouhani, Parviz Rouhani, Hossein Khosh Cheshm, Abbas Mohammadi, Mohammad Nouri were active in this work.
In 1366, Mohammad Davoudi traveled to Italy and brought a large amount of artificial clamps to Iran.
Unfortunately, in 1368, he died due to an accident. These clamps remained unused in the mountain climbing federation warehouse for a long time.
In 1371, the artificial wall was built in the Yad Mohammad Davoodi living hall located in Shiroodi Stadium by installing these clamps.
In the coming years, the need for rock climbing clips was an important issue for the expansion of competitions and the construction of artificial walls
And in this regard, with the help of Naghi Asadi, one of the chemical engineering students
University of Tehran rock climbing clamps were made in Iran and gradually the number of clamps increased
And after that, rock climbing walls were built in the sports stadium of Tehran University, then Sharif University and Science and Technology University.
This caused sports climbing to enter the university environment.
.
From June 13th to June 7th, 1371, the first training camp for referees and organizers of the first rock climbing competition in Tehran was held at the Inglebal Sports Complex.
In this camp, Hossein Reza Dost, the head of the competition committee in the federation, Abbas Mohammadi, a member of the said committee, and Abbas Jafari, a member of the board of the federation, were present as trainers.
On the 27th and 28th of July 1371, the second meeting of the Asian Committee of Rock Climbing Competitions was held in Beijing.
Iran’s first appearance in an international summit of sports climbing is related to the same meeting in Beijing, where Abbas Mohammadi attended as a representative of our country’s mountaineering federation.
On Mehr 11, 1371, the championship rock climbing competition of Tehran province, the preliminaries of the national championship competition, was held in Tehran’s Sarband Square. In this competition, Nasser Sarwar Masuleh won the first place and Hamid Rouhani won the second place.
In the same year, the Mountaineering Federation built a climbing wall with the joint office of the federations.
Installation of clamps suitable for sports climbs was carried out under the supervision of a foreign coach, from 5 to 25 November 2011, with the follow-up of the Technical Committee of the Mountaineering Federation.
course instructor,
The coach of the course was Alain Renault, who came to Iran from France at the invitation of the Mountaineering Federation.
Preparations for the presence of the French coach by Mohammad Taghi Behravar on October 17, 1371
Along with Hossein Reza Dost, they participated in the General Assembly of the World Mountaineering Union in Matsumoto, Japan.
About 25 people participated in this course.
And according to their skills, they were divided into different departments, and the information related to that department
It was issued by the French Federation, they received it.
The selection of these people was done according to the competitions and the knowledge that existed about them.
Participants from different cities across the country were present in this course
This caused the expansion of skills and knowledge acquired in the country.
At the same time, walls with a negative slope were also built in the Federation building.
The first rock climbing competition of the Asian Championship
On the 19th and 21st of September 1372, the first rock climbing competition of the Asian Championship was held in Singapore.
From Iran, Nasser Sarwarmasouleh, Rasul Kishori and Hassan Najarian participated in this competition as the first national rock climbing team of Iran.
From September 21 of the same year, a training course for the referee and the course designer was sent with the coach (Bertran Ullmann and Lorne Bouvet).
It was organized by the French Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Federation in Tehran.
On Azar 26, a junior competition was held at the Shiroudi rock climbing hall.
Among the 13 participants, 13-year-old Javad Selahi, 11-year-old Setara Nosrat and 8-year-old Hamidreza Ghasemi.
They won the first to third positions. On the same day, a short climbing competition for adults was also held
Among the 18 participants, Kamiyar Kavianpour, Hamid Nasrallahi and Mohammad Farahani won the first to third places.
On December 21st, the first round of the country’s championship youth rock climbing competition was held in Kermanshah.
Kamiyarkavianpour from Tehran, Saeed Khormarodi from Hamedan and Iraj Safa Dost from Hamedan
They won the first to third places respectively.
On 14th and 15th of Bahman 1372, competitions were held in Tehran.
The senior race ended with Kamiyar Kavianpour, Naser Sarwar Masuleh and Babak Yadgari winning first to third.
On May 23, 1373, by the Mountaineering Board of Tehran Province,
On the artificial wall of Shiroudi Stadium, a climbing competition was held under the title of Shahid Cup. 3
In this competition, Naser Sarwar Masuleh won the first place, Qasim Hasan Jani the second place and Kamiyar Kavianpour the third place.
In the summer of the same year, the competition for the selection of the national sports climbing team was also held.
On December 22, 2013, a seminar was held to investigate the issues of Tehran rock climbing competitions
With the presence of the president and secretary of the federation Sadeq Aghajani and Ahmed Shermohammed
and members of the sports climbing committee and a significant number of rock climbers of the country were held.
agenda of the seminar;
agenda of the seminar; Examining the role of indoor competitions in the progress of rock climbing.
It was announced how to hold competitions in the future, to strengthen the staff of sports climbing coaches, to make this sport universal.
In this meeting, Mohsen Nouri resigned from the chairmanship of the sports climbing committee
And instead of him, Iqbal Aflaki has taken this responsibility.
On May 29, 1374, the final stage of the country’s championship rock climbing competition was held in Tehran.
In this competition, Nasser Sarwar Masuleh won the first place and Mahmoud Irvani won the third place, but we do not know about the second place.
Nasser Sarwar Masuleh, Iraj Safa Dost and Babak Yadgari who attended the preparatory camp for the 4th Asian Games from June 1st to June 21st.
They were sent to Singapore in the same month. And Nasser Sarwar Masuleh won the 12th rank.
First gold medal
For the first time in 2012, Reza Alipour was able to swim the first person in the history of rock climbing in Iran.
To win the world gold medal in the world championships in China by setting a record of 6 seconds and 24 hundredths of a second in the sprint.
The World Rock Climbing Federation has named him the Cheetah of Asia because of his high speed.
Alipour in May 2016 in the rock climbing competition of the Nanjing China World Cup
In the semi-final stage, he set a world record with a time of 5 seconds and 48 hundredths of a second
which belonged to Ukrainian Daniel Boldirov with a time of 5 seconds and 61 hundredths of a second.
Move 12 hundredths of a second. After improving the world rock climbing speed record by 5 seconds and 48 hundredths of a second by Reza Alipour,
In an interpretation of the world media, he was called the world’s fastest vertical man and Usain Bolt the world’s rock climber.
During an action by the International Union of World Games
Voting was done among the top athletes participating in the 2017 Wrocław, Poland
Based on this, Reza Alipour is a person who swims.
The Iranian boulderer was announced as the best non-Olympic athlete in the world in 2017 by winning 91,791 popular votes.
Sport climbing and rock climbing in Iran
Bamdad company over the years, its activity. It has always been concerned with the production of equipment and climbing walls that are compatible with the most up-to-date technology in the world. Based on this, relying on the power of internal engineers and employing expert and efficient staff. It is on this path.
The science of training progressed in the 1980s with the advent of this course, and the degree of climbing of rock climbers improved significantly. Federation of Mountaineering and Sports Climbing,
Source : The comprehensive mountain climbing book is a joint work of Bamdad and the Mountaineering and Sports Climbing Federation
The beginning of the formation of sports climbing and rock climbing in Iran
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